Viewing comments posted by Bonehead

Class C noxious weed in Washington, found mostly in the drier eastern side of the state, invading pastures and rangeland. Seeds are dispersed by wind and one plant can produce 14,000 seeds. When in bloom on the hillsides, it absolutely reeks. While it is a good filler for bouquets, there are better choices with less impact on our native habitat.

This biennial readily self-seeds itself over its long bloom period. Deadheading weekly by snipping off spent blooms and letting them drop to the ground is effective. Or, the entire plant can be cut back to the basal growth after the primary flush of bloom (losing some of the bloom). If it tends to become leggy in your garden, cut it back by half when it has reached 12-15" or pinch at 6" for a shorter and sturdier display. Susceptible to root rot and may not over-winter if the soil is not well-draining.

Listed as a Class B noxious weed and on Washington's Terrestrial Noxious Weed Seed and Plant Quarantine list - do not buy, sell, or transport. Found in recently logged areas and pastures, it is toxic to livestock and can also contaminate milk if dairy animals consume it. It may also cause miscarriages in horses. Although most livestock will leave it standing in the field, caution should be exercised to avoid including it when haying, and all equipment should be washed down if tansy is present.

Class B noxious weed in Washington, and targeted as one of the top priorities to control. Found in wetlands, where it out-competes native plants, provides a poor habitat for waterfowl, clogs the waterways, and reduces forage. Do not plant in Washington, and if found, remove any plants to reduce the seed source.

Nicely cupped flowers with hairy stems and foliage. Mine have been vibrant purple and reds, although I see pastel photos posted as well, so may be best to purchase when you can tell what color you are getting. The fluffy seedpods are equally charming, although I snip out over half of them so it doesn't get overwhelming. The whole plant often disappears in mid-summer for me, and is short-lived. I've also had problems with voles eating the entire root system.

Although this is often included in herbal medicinal lists, the fresh plant is toxic if ingested and may cause inflammation if the sap comes in contact with skin or mucous membranes. Extreme caution and the advice of a trained homeopath is advised.

Unlike others, I have not yet experienced a problem with Goldsturm being too aggressive, but rather have been actively dividing it in the spring to encourage a bigger swath. Nice bright gold fall bloomer that does not require staking (a deal breaker in my garden). I let the seedheads stand through winter for the birds. Sturdy enough plant to be used as a front support for Crocosmia 'Lucifer' and the two bold colors blend well together.

Begins blooming in late summer with flat pink heads that gradually darken to a rust shade and hold well into winter. I don't cut the seed heads back until I see new growth in early spring. Plants may flop if grown in too much shade or in rich soil, otherwise an easy and reliable fall plant.

I have not had good luck with this plant in my PNW garden. It may be that my soil is too wet - it likes damp but well draining soil. I have also read that it needs to be divided every couple years to maintain vigor. Pretty little plant when it blooms, so worth a try.

Feverfew is a reliable self-seeder for me and will pop up not only where I have originally planted it, but also in other areas of the garden. Unless it is obviously overcrowding other plantings, it adds a jolly splash of little white daisies for contrast. It will also tolerate some shade. To keep plants from becoming leggy, they may be sheared back by half at about 12" tall and fertilized. Eating one leaf per day may prevent migraine headaches, and may also be helpful for as a carminative, emmenagogue, purgative, stimulant, bitter tonic, antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, and vermifuge.

Folklore: Feverfew must be pulled from the ground with the left hand, speaking the afflicted person's name, and the herbalist must not look behind him/her.

It is also a deterrent to many bugs, and as can be seen by many of the photos submitted, is a nice foil to roses.

Shear in early spring to 6" for fuller plant. Protect from winter wind burn with evergreen boughs.

Nice yellow salad tomato. Flavor is very mild and the tomatoes are almost perfectly round with no blemishes or cracking.

Yellow-green cherry tomato, sweet, continues to ripen in cooler weather.

This is a very robust and sprawling plant (too much so for me), with good yield. I found the fruit to be more acidic and less sweet than Sun Sugar (a similar orange cherry hybrid), and also prone to cracking.

I reliably get two blooms from this low-maintenance plant -- one in early spring, the second in mid-summer. The greenish-yellow bracts make a nice complement to purples or reds and provide a nice filler in front of taller plants that can get straggly around their feet. I have not had any problem with the latex on this variety, although I do break out in a rash with other euphorbias (Cypress Spurge (Euphorbia cyparissias 'Fen's Ruby') in particular).

A prettier form of common horehound (which is rather coarse), but not as hardy. Per folk lore, may be used as an antidote to the bite of a mad dog, hence its name. Horehound syrup and candy have long been used to relieve sore throats and coughs.

Soft feathery shrub with a brisk lemony fragrance. Fresh or dried, the foliage can be used to repel moths, fleas, and lice. It is said that sparrows will often incorporate southernwood in their nests to ward off fleas and lice. Fragrant addition to cosmetic cleansers and salves, with astringent properties to alleviate greasy skin/hair. Small amounts can be added to salads, fish and chicken dishes, although pregnant women should avoid consuming it. I like to plant this where one will rub up against it to release the fragrance. Tends to get woody as it matures.

This good all-around accent shrub is bright green-yellow in the early spring, brightens to a golden-yellow during the summer, then flames up to a golden-red in the fall. It grows to a well-behaved 3-4' mound. Although it needs little pruning, it is best to do so in early spring before it leafs out, when the form of the shrub is more apparent. Beware of the sharp thorns!

Useful as an early spring groundcover with a lovely fragrance, but gets rather ratty looking toward end of summer. Can be a bit invasive, but it is easy to pull the pips (to plant elsewhere or share with others). I find I have to thin it out every couple of years as it becomes overcrowded, with fewer blooms. Likes some shade, so makes a good understory to shrubs and trees.

I have found this to be not nearly as robust as other tall sedums. I therefore use it as an accent, interplanting here and there among Autumn Joy plants, where its variegated green/white foliage provides welcome bright spots.

I often find thymes to be problematic, dying out from the center after a couple years. The coccineus group has been more successful in my PNW Zone 8 garden, spreading nicely and maintaining a solid presence. As with all thymes, this one is a definite bee magnet. Likes warm, light, well drained soil that is fairly dry. Nice between stepping stones or in rockeries.