Hip, hip hooray! Springtime is here... I was needing to water the greenhouse this weekend. The forecast said an 80% chance of rain. So I took a gamble and moved most of the plants outdoors. You guessed it! No rain, still need to water plants. Maybe I should go wash the truck...
The Carolina jessamine has been amazing this year. Last year it hardly bloomed and it has made up for it. Photos don't do it justice. You can look deep into the woods and see it twining yellow through the undergrowth and up into the tree tops. And the jasmine fragrance permeates the outdoors. Tis wonderful! 
This Sansevieria has blooms developing on two different plantlets. I left it in the greenhouse for now to watch the blooms develop.
On the way out of the greenhouse, I saw two of the broms are in bloom.
This Billbergia
And the first blooms on Aechmea recurvate var. Ortgiesii
So all the broms are installed in the "shade house" which I still need to find a better shade cloth to cover it. They endured the winter in the greenhouse well. Actually not all are out yet. I have quite a few that have overwintered in damp moss. The containers don't drain so I didn't move them out due to pending rainfall. I shall have to get busy and pot them up before evicting them.
After copious amounts of rain last week, this daffodil was face down in the mud. Rather dramatic but I understood how she felt. We had 8 1/4 inches in less than one week. 
The potatoes have sprouted and are doing well. This weekend, I moved the walking onions to the potato bed in hopes of repositioning that fallow bed.
Still needing to dig up the garlic chives.
In the springtime wildflower department, Pearlie everlasting is budding. 
The tiger lilies have really spread. Look forward to blooms.
Carolina jessamine and red bud trees. Both have outdone themselves this spring. 
All in all, it is a good start to springtime and looking forward to "spring ahead" next Sunday!
The past two days have been delightful allowing me to accomplish some things before the rains beginning tomorrow.
I whacked back the clump of tattered and winter weary Aspidistra. It allowed the boy cats to lurk under it while awaiting an unsuspecting bird. The Aspidistra will come back with new, attractive growth. I will wait till the growth begins and fertilize.
I also finished cleaning the raised flower bed and see I still have more Crinums and Cemetery White Iris to remove. I also trimmed back the trailing lavender Lantana. I maybe shouldn't have done it this early but don't think I'll loose all of it to rot.
I spent a few hours in the greenhouse, watering and trimming plants. I would call it nurturing the plants but I think the plants nurture me.
I had another idea to reposition the three raised beds to receive more sun for the vegetables. As one is planted in onions and lettuce, I won't be able to move that one yet. I did the one that was empty and the timing was good. I needed to remove the invasive tree roots as well. The next one to be moved has been laying fallow. I toss twigs, leaves and scraps on it. I do believe when I move the next two, I will enlist the bucket on the tractor. Feeling a little stove up tonight.
I can't say I needed more seeds but.... turned in an order for a cucumber and a small Okra. I like the cucumbers I have been growing but they play out too quickly. I need one that is hopefully more mildew resistant. Homemade.
And the Burmese okra has good reviews ~ allegedly with less slime and producing fruit on an 18" plant. Should do o.k. in the raised beds although I was happy with Jambayla last season.
On the seed starting front, I am delighted to see germination on 11 of the 15 tomato seeds in ground. The Bella Rosa is the slowest with up to three sprouts. There are four each of Creole and Dixie Red. No word from the dill yet.
After this weekend, how can I not think spring is right around the corner...
Moderate temps compared to last weekend but Sunday night a storm blew in and it rained 2 3/4 inches in nothing flat. Monday was gorgeous with the sun shining on the mud. Actually a stiff breeze did a lot to dry it out by the evening.
Sunday I finished weeding the garlic bed. The rain Sunday evening managed to wash some of the loose soil off. Some roots are exposed. I need to add mulch and hope it will stay in place.
It was slow to sprout in October as we were way too dry. It is well behind in growth this year but will survive. It is a single clove or bulb unlike store bought garlic. After weeding, I decided to research it and find that single clove garlic is quite popular. Most is coming from China. This bulb doesn't quite resemble Solo but favors the ones from Thailand. I was delighted to find that because when I've shared bulbs, some folks think it is not garlic. Just one bulb which is far easier to peel. This garlic is an heirloom that is in a perennial bed. I dig as needed or to share.
I also watered the plants in the greenhouse and assessed the damage from freezing temps last weekend. I had two nights where the temp in the greenhouse dropped to 30/31 degrees and held in the wee hours of the morning. I had the sensor on the cooler end of the house and wasn't too worried as the heater and the ceiling fan were on.
Not much damage but there appears to be a cold draft at the door. I think I will look for an insulated curtain over the door to close on frosty nights. There were a few spider plantlets hanging down and touching the concrete floor that were toast. One side of an Angel Wing Begonia suffered obvious frost damage as it sat on the floor and the side closest to the door was hurt. Three plants on the top shelves were nipped while others showed no damage. All three will survive. One was Euphorbia Thai giant. Some of its' larger leaves turned rainbow colored and shed. It has new growth and should not be an issue. One of the delicate Orthophytums was blistered as was the Mistletoe cactus which was immature. Callisia fragrans was on the west wall sitting among the bromeliads. They were fine but it suffered.
Assembling a TODO list for springtime. I will add or delete as needed.
Needing potting up urgently:
Miho Satsuma
Meyer Improved Lemon
Meiwa Kumquat
Haworthia
Bay Laurel
Pick up materials for worm tunnels for at least two of the raised beds.
Start, start, start the brick sidewalk to the greenhouse!
Well, I have had an interesting weekend with diverse weather conditions.
It was sunny on Sunday but I found myself working on inventory. Monday turned out delightful with temps in the low 60s and sunshine. I worked outdoors just to savor the moment.
I weeded the garlic bed and then spread a fluffy layer of leaves as the temperatures were plummeting. Frostcover over the lettuce bed and onions.
I also got some seeds started. Three types of tomatoes Bella Rosa, Creole and Dixie Red (seeds acquired from Reimer Seeds) . All are supposed to be suited to produce in the warmer climate of the south. Also started Compatto dill.
I'm glad to have enjoyed the day as Tuesday morning delivered freezing temps with snow/ice. Ever so glad I didn't have to go in to work.
The weather today has had me bonding with my new wood heater. It is very efficient, burning very little wood and supplementing the radiant heat well. The radiant heat would maintain a temperature of 71 but with the wood heater the temp stays around 74 to 80 degrees. The ceiling fans on low help to circulate the warm air that has risen. I am able to cook on the top of the heater but thus far have only heated water to add humidity to the air. I have also heated water for tea and to thaw the birdbath.
Speaking of birds, they have been voracious. I added more seed loosely on the ground as they had to wait in line for the feeders. The fence line and the trees looked like they were decorated for Christmas with red birds (Cardinals) and yellow finches. Very pretty and rewarding to know I may be helping them stay warm by providing nourishment. I tried for good photos unsuccessfully but...
I barricaded my two bad boy cats inside with the girlies (although there wasn't much protest) in order for the birds to dine without interuption.
Tonite is predicted to be wicked with 12 being the forecast low. Fingers crossed for the tropical plants in the greenhouse. I've noticed a few are protesting the cooler temps by yellowing leaves. This weather is abnormal and hopefully will leave as quickly as it arrived.
I had recently added a second stoliniferous Cryptanthus lacerdae 'Menescal' and three bonus plants of Dyckia Mercury. I hope they will survive the cold after just being shipped and repotted. Time will tell.
Come on Springtime!
I had never seen this written about before to this extent and feel I needed to share and reference it for future use.
From the Harvest to Table site.
Dry Vegetable Gardening
Dry gardening–called dry farming on a grander scale–is a strategy for gardening where rainfall and irrigation water are in short supply. By definition dry farming is non-irrigated agriculture in a climate where there is 20 inches of rain or less a year.
Vegetables require water to germinate, grow, and fruit. Plant cells are made mostly of water. Vegetables take up nutrients through soil water. Drought is the condition under which plants fail to mature because they lack enought water.
But dry conditions and drought are two different things. If you live in a dry region where little rain falls each year, if irrigation is hard to come by or rationed, you can still have a productive vegetable garden.
Dry vegetable gardening is not gardening with no water; it is gardening with limited water and making the most of the water you have.
Dry farming goals:
Set four goals for yourself if you want to grow vegetables in a dry climate:
• Store annual rainfall in the soil for later use.
• Choose crops suitable for growth under arid or drought conditions.
• Sow and plant crops further apart than you would where there is ample water.
• Prevent direct evaporation of soil moisture during the growing season.
Dry farming techniques:
Here are simple practices to accomplish these goals and succeed as a dry vegetable gardener:
• Add organic matter to your garden. Add aged compost and aged manure; the more the better. Add at least ¼ to ½ inch of compost to your garden twice a year in autumn and spring. Organic matter will improve all soils and will help your soil retain water.
• Mulch around maturing plants to retain soil moisture, block weeds, and promote a steady soil temperature. Use aged compost, straw, leaves, grass clippings, newspaper, or pine needles. Be careful not to apply compost directly next to plants stems; this could cause the stems to rot. Mulch will protect the soil from drying winds and the sun.
• Do not allow weeds to grow in your garden. Weeds complete with vegetables and other plants for water, nutrients, and light. Handpick weeds when they are just 2 or 3 inches tall. Or lightly cultivate weeds exposing their roots to drying wind and sun. Never allow weeds to set seed in your garden and multiply.
• Cultivate your garden to capture rainwater. Surface cultivation will break up soil crusting caused by rainfall and irrigation and allow new rarinfall to seep into the soil. Surface cultivation just 2 or 3 inches deep will help capture up to 70 percent of each rainfall. Cultivate lightly after every rainfall to break soil crusting. See "dust mulching" below.
• Double-dig your garden to loosen the soil. Double digging can help turn your soil into a sponge. Double-digging involves turning the soil a spade's length deep (about 12 inches) and loosening the next 12 inches of soil with a spading fork. Thus the soil is turned or loosened to a depth of 24 inches. Loose soil will allow water to seep deeper into your garden where it can remain until plant roots need it. Loose soil also allows plant roots to grow deeper and stronger, more readily able to withstand drought. But do not dig the soil after a rainfall (this will damage the soil) or when it is too dry; wait until it is just barely moist. A good time to double dig your garden is in the fall.
• Reduce the number of plants in your garden and space them further apart than normal; this is a basic dry gardening concept. Set plants at least 1½ times or greater the spacing distance recommended on seed packets. When fewer plants are in the garden there will be more water to go around. For example, bush tomatoes that might normally be planted on 3 foot centers should be planted on 4 to 6 foot centers. (It is important to note that seeds must germinate under normal conditions; that is they must receive moisture to begin life and grow. Give seeds and seedlings all the water they need until they are established.)
• Plant early maturing cultivars. Most vegetables include cultivars or varieties that are quicker-maturing than others. Plant cultivars that reach maturity and come to harvest quickly. This strategy is not dry farming per se; it simply uses soil moisture early in the season while it is still available. Grow plants that require more water early in the season and allow vegetables that require less water to grow through the dry period.
• Plant dwarf and mini cultivars. Smaller cultivars will have less stem and leaf surface from which moisture can evaporate (called transpiration). Dwarf and mini cultivars usually produce fruits and leaves that are smaller–sometimes called "meal size" crops. Smaller cultivars use less water.
• Thin plants on time. Thin seedlings when they are just an inch or two tall. Leave the strongest seedlings in place and use a scissors to trim away the unwanted seedling at soil level. Thinning is akin to weeding. It allows the plants you select to use valuable water and nutrients for growth and production. Water is not wasted on plants that will not succeed.
• Harvest your crops on time. Take crops at their peak of growth and flavor. Don't leave plants in garden too long, flavor will not be enhanced and crops will deteriorate.
• Use drip irrigation or a soaker hose if you irrigate. Set drip irrigation at the base of plants where the water will go quickly to roots. Cover drip irrigation with straw or black plastic to slow soil surface evaporation. Place your irrigation on a timer.
• Water plants deeply but infrequently. Plant roots follow the moisture. Water deeply by watering at a trickle allowing water to seep slowly down into the soil, not quickly run off. Water at night at the base of plants, or water in morning if you expect irrigation will hit plant leaves (this will allow leaves to dry before nightfall and avoid disease).
• Capture rainwater from rain gutters (not rooftops) in a large garbage can placed under rainspouts. This water can be used to make compost tea. Make compost tea by combining equal parts water and aged compost. Compost tea is nutrient rich and will deliver the nutrients directly to the plant roots in soluble form. Remember plants "drink" their food.
• Windbreaks. Protect your garden soil and plants from drying winds with a windbreak. Locate your garden away from prevailing winds behind a hedge or fence. Sunflowers and sunchokes (Jerusalem artichoke) can be grown as natural windbreaks.
• Dust mulching (this is a basic dry-farming method). Dust or dirt mulching disrupts the soil drying process essentially separating the upper layer of a garden's soil from the lower layers. Soil moisture is a continuous film of water surrounding soil particles. As moisture enters the soil and seeps downward it forms a column of soil moisture from the surface to the deepest point that the moisture travels (called capillary water). When the weather warms, surface moisture evaporates and soil moisture from below is drawn upwards to replace it; soil moisture is wicked from the ground via the evaporation from above. When the film of moisture in the soil becomes too thin, plants wilt and may die.
Dust mulching is simply soil cultivation to about 2 or 3 inches deep. Cultivation disturbs the soil surface and interrupts the wicking of soil moisture. The cultivated soil becomes a sort of mulch which protects the moisture below from being wicked to the surface and lost to evaporation.
Dust mulching is most effective if it is done after each rain or irrigation. It must be done when the soil is moist in order to interrupt the continuity of capillary water. Dirt mulching also keeps the soil loose and permeable and receptive to new rainfall or irrigation.
• Stubble mulching. Stubble mulching protects the soil surface from the drying process of wind and sun. A stubble mulch is simply the organic remains of a harvested crop or a live green manure. Not all of the previous crop is removed from the garden or a green manure crop is planted in its place. Use stubble mulches where there is no danger of the crop stubble or garden debris hosting diseases or insects. A stubble crop should not be a member of the same plant family as the crop that will follow.
• Clear fallowing. Clear fallowing is used by some farmers in dry regions to capture and store rainwater. No crops or vegetation are grown in a field for a year. The soil is cleared of all but crop stubble (which acts as a stubble mulch for a year) and rainfall is captured and stored. It is estimated that where the soil is well-worked to 18 inches deep, clear fallowing will retain up to 70 percent of precipitation. Clear fallowing, sometimes called summer fallowing, is done every other year in some dry regions.
