The grafting tape has or soon will cut off flow of photosynthate and growth regulators which move through phloem tissues to the roots, so that needs to come off before the tree leafs out in the spring.
I can't see what surrounds the tree (fence, home, garden, etc), but here is what I would do. First, I would forget about a formal upright tree and embrace the tree's curves, incorporating them into an interesting trunkline. Moving up the trunk beyond where it veers left you'll see a trifurcation consisting of the main branch which runs through and 2 lateral branches. If you pinch out (prune/remove) the middle branch/leader, the top branch of the trifurcation will serve as the new leader/trunkline. The lower branch bifurcates (makes a 'Y') not far beyond where the center of the trifurcation was removed. Prune both branches of the bifurcation back to the first pair of buds immediately distal to the bifurcation. Each pair of buds will produce 2 new branches in the spring.
Notice the node just beyond where the trunk veers left. You're going to get 2 branches from that node. Select the one that grows somewhere near opposite of the low branch on the opposite side and rub the other off. Maples look best if primary and secondary branching consists of all bifurcations.
If the tree is still in a nursery can, or isn't well-established, you can also change the planting angle significantly. This particular tree's trunk should grow toward what you consider to be the main viewing point, so it leans forward in greeting.
There is no physiological reason not to do this, so let your preference be your guide. The images are of a trident maple, native to Japan.
The one in the middle with a big white scar.
.... happy to answer questions if you have them.
Al