Hi all,

My Kentia Palm bought 6 weeks ago has started developing some yellow stems with leaves darkening and somewhat drying and contracting (see images below). It started on a small bunch of stems a few weeks ago and I thought that I had solve the issue by cutting that part but larger stems/leaves are now impacted and it seems to be worsening.
I water once a week usually until it drips a little bit through (maybe between one cup and one pint of water max). The plant is below a velux SE facing and 4m from a south facing window. The house temperature is usually set at 22C (we like it cosy). Humidity in the house is around 35%.

I want to understand whether I need to water less or more. I can't get a clear answer from my quick Google search.

Thanks in advance,
Matt

First, I need to be sure it is a Kentia Palm. Palms are difficult to distinguish. Can you post a photo that is taken a foot or two above the pot so I can see all of the lower stems and also the pot?

Thanks.

Thanks Will for your reply.

Here are two additional pictures, one as requested and one showing a different leaf that seems to dry at the end.

Hey!
I think I'm having the same issue with my Palms.
The leaves are turning yellow-brown, and dry. And then just dead!
As much as I know, they're Areca Palms. Here's the picture-




I don't keep them indoors, I have them positioned here in the shade though, but they do get like 3 hours of (direct) sunlight. Is it the sun burn?

And the same thing is happening to my Phoenix/Date Palms-



These are placed in a sunny spot (4 hours of sun), because I was under the impression that they tolerate full sun.

Also, my Sago Palms are in the direct sun, their leaves haven't scorched yet though.

And it would be really kind if you could enlighten me on their watering regime. Different sites say different things.
@WillC

Thank you in advance!

Thanks for the follow-up, Matt. You could spend forever on google and not get a proper answer to your concern!

Your Palm is a Kentia and that is a good thing. However, it appears that your Kentia is not getting enough light. Skylights are not good light sources for plants unless they are unusually large and not more than a few feet above the plant. 4 m is too far from the south window to provide adequate light. Ideally, it should be just beyond the reach of the sun's rays falling directly on the leaves, more like 1 - 1.5 meters away from the south window.

It appears that your plant is still in its nursery pot which has been inserted into a sealed decorative planter. If so, then when you water be sure to lift up the inner pot enough so that you can see when water is running through the drain holes. Make sure the inner pot is never left sitting in water. This may not be necessary if the outer pot has a drain hole.

In general, it is best to water your Kentia thoroughly as soon as the surface of the soil feels dry. In a proper location that is about once per week.

You can expect to lose some lower older fronds as the plant adapts to your home and as it ages. New fronds should remain healthy, however.

The humidity and temperature are fine and not an issue.

Let me know if you have additional questions. Avoid google!

@queen1694 - I would like to help you, but my experience and expertise are limited to plants that are grown and kept primarily indoors. Outdoor environments are so variable that it is hard to provide a definitive answer. Also, be aware that different Palm species have very different light and water requirements. You might try posting your question and photos elsewhere on this site, such as the Tropicals forum.

Thanks a lit WillC.

I started thinking about the light issue actually noticing the fronds furthest to the window were the ones impacted. It will go nicely with our strizia nicolai close to window. I have to say London (UK) winters are not kind to indoor plants when it comes to light.

Watering wise I have now started watering it in a walkin shower where i can let it drain thoroughly whilst giving it a decent soak.
I actually wonder if my Philodendron (monstrosa kind) is suffering from the same issue as it is developing some brown spots and new leaves are sometimes coming out dead. Might ask in different post though.

Thanks again!

Nothing wrong with schlepping it to the shower to water it, but it should be easier for you to simply lift the inner pot up to take a peek or to put a saucer under the outer pot if it has a drain hole. Your choice! (I'm lazy!)

Strelitzias require a lot more light than Kentia. Make sure your Kentia is protected from any sun falling directly onto its fronds.

WillC said:@queen1694 - I would like to help you, but my experience and expertise are limited to plants that are grown and kept primarily indoors. Outdoor environments are so variable that it is hard to provide a definitive answer. Also, be aware that different Palm species have very different light and water requirements. You might try posting your question and photos elsewhere on this site, such as the Tropicals forum.

Yes that would be a good idea. I understand, thank you !

Thanks Will for your reply.

Here are two additional pictures, one as requested and one showing a different leaf that seems to dry at the end.

@MacFr - Not sure why you reposted, but my response is already posted above.

The plot thickens... but not my Kentia.

So after deciding to remove some of the dead fronds (incl. the two tallest ones ) I discovered some white marks at the base of the frond (a few cms above the soil) as well as some bugs in the stomp of the dead leaves from a few weeks ago (see initial message). All documented in the pictures below. Worth mentioning as well the base of the fronds that had just started turning yellow was darker and humid to the touch once exposed. My moisture sensor puts the soil in the pot at medium moist or dry-ish depending on the depth.

About 40% of the plant(s) has now perished and I'm afraid this won't stop unless I can get rid of those bugs. Any clue what they are?

I have also added two recent photos of leaves that haven't dried like the others but instead have partially turned yellowish to brown or crackled. Kind of spot-drying it seems, unlike the other leaves that just slowly dried after the frond started yellowing. Unsure if this is related...

Thanks in advance.

The bugs are not the cause of the problem. However, they are a symptom of poor soil quality and probably soil that is staying too wet causing some of the roots and stems to rot.

That said, I am not advising you to change the soil. But do be wary of the source of your plants. I do suggest that you stop relying on the moisture meter because they are notoriously inaccurate.

I assume you have improved the light. If you have not, then nothing else really matters.

I suggest you let the top inch of soil get dry before you add just enough water so that the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch again in about a week.

I bought a kentia palm prob 2 month ago and repotted in palm cactus mix with organic soil along with extra perlite. However the leaves are discoloring. Not sure if its overwatering or not. Can anyone help? Is there a way to save it?

@Moggy291 - Kentia Palms do not like to have their roots disturbed and almost never need repotting. It is the repotting that your Kentia is reaching to. I am curious as to why you repotted it.

Did you remove all or some of the original soil when you repotted? Is it now double potted and potted directly into the white planter?

When do you water and how much to you give it?

How far is it from the nearest window?

Can you confirm that this is kentia and not majesty? The more i look at the bottom stem, the more it looks like a majesty palm. When i repot it, i only removed the loose soil but kept the root ball intact. Its double potted. The white planter is what i put the black pot into.

I have a water meter so i give it water when its almost dry and i give it enough water so the soil is moist.

Closest window is prob 10 feet away but i give it grow light at times.

If it is a magesty, those definitely don't do well indoors.

Can you confirm that this is kentia and not majesty? The more i look at the bottom stem, the more it looks like a majesty palm. When i repot it, i only removed the loose soil but kept the root ball intact. Its double potted. The white planter is what i put the black pot into.

I have a water meter so i give it water when its almost dry and i give it enough water so the soil is moist.

Closest window is prob 10 feet away but i give it grow light at times.

WillC said:@Moggy291 - Kentia Palms do not like to have their roots disturbed and almost never need repotting. It is the repotting that your Kentia is reaching to. I am curious as to why you repotted it.

I repootted because when i purchased it the soil was very dirty looking and didnt look fresh.

Did you remove all or some of the original soil when you repotted? Is it now double potted and potted directly into the white planter?

I removed the loose soil and replaced it with new. I kept the root ball intact.

When do you water and how much to you give it? I use a water meter to measure when the dirt is almost dry and water until dirt is moist. Takes about 1 month foe the need to water.

How far is it from the nearest window?
About 10 ft but i use grow light on it.

Just to confirm, does this look like a kentia vs majestic?

queen1694 said:Hey!
I think I'm having the same issue with my Palms.
The leaves are turning yellow-brown, and dry. And then just dead!
As much as I know, they're Areca Palms. Here's the picture-




I don't keep them indoors, I have them positioned here in the shade though, but they do get like 3 hours of (direct) sunlight. Is it the sun burn?

And the same thing is happening to my Phoenix/Date Palms-



These are placed in a sunny spot (4 hours of sun), because I was under the impression that they tolerate full sun.

Also, my Sago Palms are in the direct sun, their leaves haven't scorched yet though.

And it would be really kind if you could enlighten me on their watering regime. Different sites say different things.
@WillC

Thank you in advance!

Hi Queen, I grow all of these palms. Your Areca (Dypsis lutescens) palm, your Phoenix date palm and your cycad (sago) should all tolerate full sun quite easily. These are all probably the 3 main palms grown out in people's yards and as landscaping staples around businesses in Florida from zone 9a-10b. They do like more water when grown outdoors than they would require if growing indoors. If you have only been letting them get 3-4 hours of sun a day That really isn;t enough. But I would not suddenly plop them out into the sun all day, you need to acclimate them slowly maybe 15 minutes extra a day for a week then increase to 30 etc until they are out almost the full day.

Have any of your plants bloomed? If they have the oldest leaves will start to naturally die back so that the trees can continue to form trunks. Even if they have not they naturally lose bottom fronds in order to trunk. Some palms are 'self cleaning', meaning that when a frond dies back, the entire frond will detach itself from the trunk and just fall off. Areca palms are self cleaning. Date palms are not, you have to prune off the dead fronds. Your date palm looks great has a beautiful trunk.

Sago palms are not really palms they are just called that they are in a different genus, they are Cycads, but many behave like palms. These have a natural leaf shed every year, both the male plants and the female plants. The females are setting seed here now, then they bottom tier leaves naturally brown. They don;t fall off though they have to be pruned off. Many people here in Florida completely defoliate their sago palms of both sexes in December or January by pruning off ALL the fronds and then a new flush of growth will come out in spring. Or you can be lazy like me and just cut off the brown ones.