I have a Meyer Lemon, two years in the ground. It produces lots of
blossoms and a few fruits on one small trunk. Two side trunks have
no blossoms or fruit buds and are three time the height of the fruit
bearing trunk. Are the non-fruit bearing trunks from original root
stock? Do I need to remove them? 

Hi, Kathy--

Ah, the vagaries of lemon growth!  The side shoots are probably the
same stock -- IF 4 things are true:  1) they arise from high up on
the trunk (above the graft), 2) they don't go straight up from a
side branch (in which case they're watersprouts), 3) their foliage
looks the same as the original, and 4) they don't have mean-looking,
inch-long thorns.  It may just be that these newer branches are
expressing the vigor of the tree now that it's established, and they
should bear blossoms and fruits later in the season or next year.

4 years ago I bought a Lychee tree that was in a 15 gallon pot and
it has been in the ground that long.
The tree seems to be healthy with good new growths.
Last two years, I have seen flower spikes but no fruit.
This year I can see 20 or 30 flower spikes and am wondering if I
will see any fruit. Is there anything I should do to help out?
I am in the Chevy Chase canyon in Glendale area. Any help you can
give me would be greatly appreciated.
My email address is:
                    puffa@charter.net

Can you give some advice on successfully growing dwarf citrus in
containers?  I planted a dwarf naval orange in a large container but
it does not seem happy.  It's blooming profusely but the leaves a
yellowish green and somewhat sparse.  I am wondering if I should
give up on the container and just plant it in the ground.

thanks,

Hi, Tressa--

Container gardening is always high-maintenance because the plants
are completely dependent on you for all their momentary needs, from
potting mix to fertilizer to irrigation, and especially to
alterations due to weather changes.  The larger the container, the
better, since this offers some buffering to immediate concerns. 
Planting in the ground is far superior just because the roots are
literally connected to the rest of the earth and all of its
resources, so condition changes are much slower to be reflected in
the plant.  Foliage that is yellowish-green and sparse means it
needs nitrogen asap.  Profuse blooming means the plant is normal,
since reproduction is the point of all plants.  But, with the lack
of nitrogen, the tree is in danger of expending its energy beyond
what it can recoup from the soil.  If you have the option,
transplant it into the soil.  If you still want it in the container,
replace the potting mix with fresh mix, incorporate a balanced,
slow-release fertilizer like 10-10-10, and water thoroughly.  Either
way, don't be concerned with loss of blossoms or tiny fruit, since
citrus always undergo "June Drop" due to setting more fruit than it
can safely mature.  

Yvonne,

We just moved to a property in Orange County, CA that has many
established and mature fruit trees. The varieties include orange,
lemon, apricot, peach, persimmons, etc.

Would you recommend any books on the care of fruit trees?

The citrus (oranges, lemon, grapefruit and tangerines) have a lot of
fruit on the trees.  Should I harvest the remaining fruit?

Also many of the deciduous fruit are getting new fruit?  Should I be
doing any fruit thinning?

Finally, should I be fertilizing right now?

I am new to caring for fruit trees as you can see. 

Thanks in advance for all your help.

Will

Hi, Will--
   What a bounty you've inherited!
   For books, visit your local Armstrong or other nursery and an
excellent bookstore with lots of gardening books, and leaf through
them to find which you're most comfortable with reading.
   Leave all the citrus on the trees, and pick them as you want to
enjoy them.  The longer they stay on the tree, the sweeter they'll
get with the additional sunshine's warmth.  I give my trees a shake
on each large limb, and whatever falls I'm assured is ripe!  
   Do thin the deciduous fruit so the trees aren't stressed in
trying to ripen all that are set, and you don't lose any branches
due to excessive weight.  As shocking as it may first appear, remove
up to 80 percent of the small fruits -- this will concentrate the
tree's energy into the remaining ones, and you'll be surprised in
another month that you still have so many on the tree.  Leave fruit
that head downwards so the leaves will camouflage them from the
birds flying overhead. Leave fruit on alternate sides of the branch
and far enough apart so there's no possibility of their touching as
they enlargen.  Finally, remove all fruit more than 18 inches out
from where the branch connects -- any fruit left that far out will
drag down the branches as they mature and stay "stuck" in that
position once the fruit is picked.  Also, branches that long should
be pruned anyway, so make a point of it once you've enjoyed the
fruit. 
  Feed citrus, avocado, nectarine, peach, and plum now.
  For excellent and thorough home backyard information, refer to the
California Rare Fruit Growers website, www.crfg.org

Hi, Again, Will--

   Two other excellent websites for home orchardists are 1)
University of California Home Orchard, www.homeorchard.ucdavis.edu
and 2) Dave Wilson Nursery, which grows trees specifically for home
orchards, www.davewilson.com

Hi, Dave--
  My apologies for not responding earlier; somehow I wasn't notified
of your message, and I just see it now after answering Will's query.
  If bees aren't plentiful in your area, this may account for the
lack of pollination of the lychee's blooms.  
  Best to check the California Rare Fruit Grower's website,
www.crfg.org, for specific lychee information and a contact person.