Ms. Savio suggests watering lawns "deeply", 6-8 inches. How would I
determine how long to water to acheive that or how deep I have
watered? I'm guessing it isn't by digging down to see, but ??
In My Garden Blog
Southern California Coastal & Inland Valleys
May 25, 2006
By
Yvonne Savio,
Pasadena, CA
Pelargoniums and bulbs thrive at the edge of lawns.
The Smaller the Lawn, the Better
As we've become more concerned about water conservation, the lushness and velvety feel of lawns beneath our bare feet have become forbidden pleasures, at least in the huge expanses typical in Midwestern and eastern locales. However, as we reduce the size of our lawns to special spaces in our landscapes, we must be more attentive to keeping them healthy. So here are some critical guidelines to keeping lawns healthy:
1. Mow lawns once or twice a week to keep blades short and encourage them to continually sprout new blades.
2. During warm weather, set mower blade height to between 2 and 3 inches for a lush feel.
3. Don't cut off more than 25 percent of new growth at a single mowing or the lawn won't have enough "green part" to grow vigorously.
4. Keep the lawn fertilized with a slow-release fertilizer just enough to grow well but not so much it stimulates lots of lush, water-demanding growth that will keep you mowing.
5. Change frequency of watering to once a week or so. Let the grass tell you when it needs to be watered -- it'll wilt slightly and turn from bright green to dull green.
6. Continue to water deeply to thoroughly moisten the soil down to the bottoms of the root tips, 6 to 12 inches deep. This will allow the surface of the soil to dry between waterings to avoid diseases getting established when grass blades and the soil surface are constantly wet. It will also foster deep rooting, so the lawns are healthier and thrive longer between waterings, especially during hot weather.
Deep watering will also help the blooming bulbs and other plants growing at the edges of the lawn.
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Comments on The Smaller the Lawn, the Better
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We welcome your questions and comments about this column. If you have gardening questions unrelated to the column, please ask them on our message boards.
janet
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Susana
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That is a good question that I also have. How do we know if we are
watering enough. Can you give us a hint on "how long will it take
to achieve this"
thanks so much,
Al
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One way to measure water depth into the soil when using a spinkler
is to catch the water in a coffee can and measure it. 1" of water
will usually penetrate about 12" in sandy-loam soil and less in
clay. You can do one test hole to see how much an inch of water
penetrates in your soil.
If you use drip or soaker hose you can use a steel rod to push down
into the soil. The rod goes through wet soil, but stops when it hits
dry soil.
Carl
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I have found that Wearing golf shoes when mowing will help with
diseases from getting started. The spikes break up the surface soil
so air can dry it out A little sooner. The shoes also help with
strong deep rooting. Then the surface soil starts to dry the roots
will dig in deeper , and I use A little less water. (Good job
Yvonne ! :)
Yvonne Savio
Thanks, Al, for describing the "tuna can" measuring technique, and
the approximate depth that 1" of water goes in sandy-loam soil.
Janet and Susanna, try placing your containers in several spots, to
get an average of water filling the cans. Then, digging straight
down the day after watering (to allow the water to percolate as far
down as it'll go) will give you the guideline specific to your
garden. Remember that if you've amended soil in one spot but not in
another, the water will seep at different rates, so test both spots.
You may have to water longer in one spot than another. Also, be
cognizant of the water needs of specific plants. For example,
mature tomato plants will need much more water in midsummer than a
lavender plant at anytime.
Carl, thanks for the golf-shoe double trick while mowing--aerating
your soil, and letting your feet think they're chasing golf balls
instead of a mower!