I have two of these beautiful plants in my front yard and I was wondering if and when I can trim them up. I want to keep them low since they are in front of my windows. Can you tell me when would be the best time to trim these guys up?
In My Garden Blog:
Pacific Northwest
August 4, 2005
By
Patt Kasa,
Seattle, WA
The trailing flowers of pieris make a delicate springtime display.
In Praise of Pieris
My interest in pieris began ten years ago when I was mentally designing the greenbelt that surrounds our property. I wanted a low-maintenance evergreen shrub with seasonal interest that would be equally happy in sun or shade. As I scoured local nurseries for just the right plant, I kept finding pieris. There was no single feature that attracted me most, but the combination of all its attributes convinced me that pieris was just the right plant to ease the transition from greenbelt native understory to our more formal landscape.
Also called andromeda, pieris is a medium-tall shrub that requires little care and can be grown from USDA Zones 4 to 8. Like other members of the heath family (Ericaceae), which includes rhododendrons and azaleas, pieris requires an acid pH, humusy soil, and organic mulch to keep the roots happy.
The rich green, glossy foliage of pieris stands out year-round, and in early spring a profusion of small, cup-shaped flowers ranging from deep pink through cream to white hangs in clusters like strings of beads. As a bonus, the flowers of some cultivars emit a light, fruity fragrance reminiscent of grape hyacinths. When the bronze-red new leaves appear, pieris assumes a soft, feathery look that can last as long as a month until the new leaves turn green. In winter the flower buds, which range in color from green to dark red, look striking against the leaves. And pieris leaves don't curl in cold weather and look sorry like rhododendron leaves do.
Landscape Uses
Green all year and dense in habit, pieris makes an excellent informal screen, either by itself or combined with other broadleaved evergreens, such as laurels, rhododendrons, and hollies. Lilies, daffodils, and other shade-loving plants make a pleasing scene against a backdrop of pieris. A single pieris can be a good focal point in a shady, secluded corner. For any garden that is lovingly tended and frequently visited, pieris shows well, even under close inspection.
Growing Conditions
Pieris performs well in full shade to full sun and will bloom beautifully in either. To provide the woods-like acidic soil conditions, I work 2 to 3 inches of peat into the top foot of soil when I plant. In humus-poor soils, you can add another 2 to 3 inches of peat. Other organic materials, such as composted leaves or pine needles, also will help loosen the soil.
The roots require excellent drainage to prevent waterlogging and to avoid phytophthera, a fungus that causes root rot. If your soil drains poorly, consider planting pieris in raised beds.
Pieris can be planted in spring or fall, when weather is cool and rainfall abundant. After removing the plant from its pot, tease out about an inch of roots all around the rootball with your fingers to encourage roots to grow out into the surrounding soil. The plant should be set at the same depth it was growing in the nursery pot. To allow for their mature size, space plants 6 feet apart. (Dwarf cultivars can be planted closer.) For a more immediate effect, you can plant them as close as 3 feet apart and later transplant them farther apart.
It's important to water well the first year. Once the plants are established, irrigation is less crucial, but a thorough watering during summer dry periods is beneficial.
In spring I fertilize with a 10-6-4 formulation applied at half rate. Proper soil preparation and an acidic mulch should prevent chlorosis.
Since pieris are shallow-rooted, mulching is essential. I rake wood chips or pine needles over the soil surface, but you can use any organic mulch material. Other than removing dead or broken limbs, it's not necessary to prune pieris. The natural form is picturesque, but you can certainly prune them back if they overgrow their spots in the landscape.
Pieris Choices
Pieris japonica cultivars begin blooming around mid-March. 'Valley Valentine' is one of the earliest bloomers. It has exceptionally glossy, dark green leaves that contrast with very elegant white flowers. This compact low-grower reaches about 3 feet tall and bears a profusion of pink and white flowers that appear deep pink from a distance.
The bright red new leaves of 'Mountain Fire' provide a fiery display for several weeks. The flowers are white and less showy than those of other pieris, but this cultivar takes more sun and is quite vigorous. It grows into a 5-foot-tall plant with a pleasing asymmetrical shape. 'Scarlet O'Hara', a similar cultivar, has showier flowers but does not hold its fiery color as long.
I've combined pieris with a few of its later-blooming relatives, enkianthus and leucothoe, both white-flowered shrubs. Even during the quiet months from midsummer through early fall, the graceful form of pieris creates a cool, serene feeling among the deep shadows of our native hemlocks and Douglas firs.
If you're looking for an abundant display of colorful foliage, and the bonus of fragrant springtime flowers, one of the many cultivars of Pieris japonica is sure to be a delightful addition to your garden.
Join the discussion!
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Natalie in Hoquiam, Washington | May 6, 2007 | 11:50PM
Patt | May 7, 2007 | 11:37AM
Keeping Pieris small will be quite a chore - they grow into really high and wide shrubs at maturity. However, I have one next to a 4' split-rail fence and I've managed to keep it only 4' tall for the past 15 years. Simply cut it back to the desired size. I cut the branches at random lengths so the plant looks normal, not sheared. It will respond by growing new stems and becoming more dense in the center of the plant. Best wishes with your landscape!
Chris | May 3, 2008 | 9:08AM
I have a two pieris which are/were? living in pots and doing "ok". They have both recently turned an orangey brown colour (flowers and leaves a like)and look rather sad. I think we may have had a recent frost would this have effected them? What can i now do?
Patt | May 3, 2008 | 1:11PM
Keeping in mind that the new growth on pieris is a reddish color, what you describe can be simply the new growth. On the other hand, it might also indicate environmental stress. I'd wait a few weeks to see whether or not the color changes to green. If not, the new foliage and flowers may have been nipped by frost. If this is the case, prune off the damage portions of your shrubs and they should begin to produce healthy new growth. Hope so!
Brooke in Seattle, WA | July 8, 2008 | 12:22PM
Hi Patt, We have a very large pieris in our front yard that needs to be pruned. I'm worried about cutting into it because the foliage is only at the very ends of the bush, and it will be quite unsightful if we cut anymore than a few inches off. Is there a certain time of the year that's better to prune than others? Or will it send out new growth at any time? Thanks for your insight. Brooke
Patt | July 8, 2008 | 1:39PM
Because it is a broadleaf evergreen, pieris tends to lose its oldest leaves, usually lower down on the shrub and towards the insides of the branches. Because of their dense growth habit, no light gets to the branches and stems, they are slow to replace lost leaves. As youve discovered, the only new growth will be at the ends of the branches. Ive pruned my pieris shrubs back hard and theyve always responded by sending up lots of healthy new growth. But I never remove more than about a third of the growth in any pruning session. If yours is really overgrown you may need to renovate it over a period of 2-3 years. Now, in July, you can prune your shrub back by about one third. Next spring, after flowering has finished, prune it back by a third again. If it is still too large, you can prune it back again the following spring. After youve cut it back you can reach into the center of the plant and shorten or remove some of oldest the branches. Your plant will send up healthy new stems wherever you prune old ones out. Pieris is a vigorous grower and can be kept full and lush with annual pruning. So, once youve gotten your shrub back into shape, remember to prune after flowering each year and youll be able to control its size.
Heather in Seattle | July 28, 2008 | 11:58PM
Hi Patt, We've just inherited a large, happy Pieris at our new house (maybe 7 feet tall with several thick stems), but the problem is that it's growing right up along a set of concrete steps and large granite boulders that need to be replaced. I am not sure how long it's been in the ground, but by its size I assume it's pretty well established. Any hope of transplanting this? I am not sure if it would survive being taken out of the ground? Thanks!
Patt | July 29, 2008 | 10:14AM
I think your mature pieris can be transplanted successfully but it will take some advance preparation. Here in the PNW we can prune shrubs as late as September and the new growth will have time to harden off before our first frost (usually mid-November). With that in mind, youll want to reduce the size of the plant for easy handling. Prune it back by one-third and then remove some of the oldest stems right at ground level. Pruning prior to moving will lessen transplant shock. You will undoubtedly sever some roots during the digging process. Having to support fewer leaves and branches will be less stressful to the plant while it is re-establishing itself in its new home. Id prune it in September and move then. It should become established over the winter and begin growing in the early spring. Be sure to water it regularly if rainfall is less than normal this winter. In the spring, when new growth begins, you can prune it back again. With a few pruning sessions over the summer months your pieris should evolve into a bushy, compact shrub. It will probably take 2-3 years for your pieris to look attractive after the move. Considering the amount of work involved in digging, moving and after care, you may want to think about simply purchasing a new pieris to replace the old one. They are readily available, inexpensive and fast growing. You wont need to do any remedial pruning to make a new pieris look attractive and a new shrub will grow and flower reliably for years and years. Just a thought!
Tania in Massachusetts | May 8, 2009 | 1:51AM
I was just wondering how fast do Peiris grow? I have one that is about 2 feet from soil level to the top, and I was thinking of transplating it to my front yard. I think this kind is supposed to get up to 10 feet or so. Thanks.
Patt | May 8, 2009 | 1:16PM
I think the answer depends upon which Pieris you are growing. Some maintain a height of only about two feet and others grow upwards of eight feet in height. I am growing Pieris japonica 'Mountain Fire' which reaches about four feet in height. It tends to want to get bigger but I keep it pruned to about four feet because it is planted in front of a small fence. I have found that they are slow to establish but quick to regrow after pruning. You might try pruning yours back by a few inches to promote new growth. Enjoy!
Lynn East | July 15, 2009 | 1:27PM
I planted three Pieris (2 valleyrose and one valentine) this past fall amending the soil based on an analysis from the MSU extension. The plants survived our harsh Michigan winter weather without any problems. However, none of the plants flowered in the springtime. They did have the old "brown" berrylike bracts attached and did not seem to lose them overmuch. I left them on because I found them attractive. I read that they are usually removed and that they are generally not admired. Anyway, I decided to snip off all of the dried berries from one of the Pieris. Ever since, it has been very droopy and sad looking - my other 2 plants are thriving - new leaf growth - yet no sign of flowers - what have I done to my ailing Pieris and will it recover?
Dana | April 4, 2011 | 11:53PM
I just planted a Pieris in a large container with some slightly acidic soil and used the one that was recommended by the nursery for having good drainage. It had the lovely, healthy white blooms on it when I transplaned it, but now, after 4 days, the flowers are softening and turning brown, and the leaves are drooping. Help! Could it be that I watered it too much since I transplanted it? Is it just having some transplant shock? What should I do to help it recover?
Patt | April 5, 2011 | 10:40AM
Dana, it sounds as though you're overwatering your pieris. Well draining soil is a must and if you planted with potting soil rather than garden soil, you're on the right track. The difficulty with watering containerized plants is our tendency to either overwater or underwater. I usually allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. You can even stick your finger down into the potting soil to check the moisture content. If it is still moist one inch below the surface, you won't need to water for another few days; if it feels dry to the touch one inch down, it's time to water. I hope this helps you determine just when to water your pieris. In the meantime, place it in a garden spot that gets a few hours of morning sun but shade from hot afternoon sunshine. When it recovers and begins to show new growth you can prune away any dead flowers or damaged leaves and move it to a sunnier spot. Best wishes with your new pieris!
Tracy H | July 22, 2011 | 1:35PM
I planted 2 Pieris' (Mountain Fire) in large containers this spring and they're doing great. I'm wondering how to look after them in the winter. I live in Toronto, Canada and it can get very cold but the plants are somewhat protected. Someone suggested that I wrap them in burlap (including the container). Please advise.
Patt | July 22, 2011 | 2:20PM
Hi Tracy! I understand your concern about containerized plants - the roots are really susceptible to cold damage because they are above ground. In general, pieris is hardy to about zone 5 and Toronto is classified as zone 5-6 so the tops of the plants should be okay throughout the winter months, especially if they are kept in a protected area, away from drying winter winds. I think there are several ways to protect the roots. You can bury the pots in the ground to help insulate them, or you can wrap the containers with insulating material such as bubble wrap or burlap to help keep them a little warmer than the air temperature. I wouldn't wrap the entire plant in burlap - they can develop fungal diseases. I hope this information helps